With a brisk north easterly, we left Kalamos and had a brilliant 39 mile sail south, through the passage to the north of Oxias out into the Gulf of Corinth and then east to within about 5 miles of Messalonghi when the wind died.
A rather longer stop in Messalonghi than we’d originally planned, but in the end, well worth the wait, with the first night at anchor, then 3 nights in the Marina, then 39 nights again at anchor then the final 5 nights on the floating concrete pontoon on the other side of the harbour.
While in the Marina, we met up with Pat and Tony, a couple who we met last year who had given up sailing the world and settled down permanently in Messalonghi. We went with them and another couple we vaguely knew, Colin and Maggie back to their house for pre dinner drinks and then to a local Taverna. For the 6 of us, with more than enough wine of questionable quality, really tender roasted pork, beef stew, Greek salad and chips, €70! A real bargain at about £10 each.
However over dinner, someone mentioned a family run business in Messalonghi specialising in upholstery, including cockpit cushions, something we’ve always wanted, but never got round to sorting. So Monday, we called in at their workshop, which initially resembled a garage – 2 hours later, the father and son called at the boat, took rough measurements, gave us a price an hour later which we accepted, and on Tuesday visited Jacana again to make templates and take a deposit. Only problem was it would take 2 weeks to make them. Well there are worse places to stop for a few days.
Having had 3 nights in the Marina we needed somewhere cheaper (€33 per night) so opted to anchor (free) in the bay for 3 nights. This was no problem, other than the wind gusting at up to 30 knots. So on Friday, having been boat bound for 3 nights we went to the other side of the harbour and tied up side on against the floating pontoon.
This gave us the opportunity to eat (and drink) with Colin and Maggie a couple of times, once at Maria’s Taverna and then a pizza at Spiros who is a real character. He is making a one man protest about the local council allegedly forcing him pay to put chairs and tables outside his Taverna catching the locals as they pass by and shouting his views vehemently so all can hear. 🤣
Apparently he allegedly owes them 20 years back pay so they confiscated his outdoor furniture. He bakes his bread in the pizza oven and is phenomenal. We also caught up again with Pat and Tony who kindly gave us a bottle of olive oil from their grove. It was an excuse also to get the bikes on land and cycle round the other lagoon where we were chased by loose, barking dogs, saw a flock of flamingos and another chance to re-a quaint ourselves with the town. The pontoon wasn’t free though, our conscious getting the better of us, we eventually payed for 3 nights at €7 per night (despite staying for 6!).
On Monday afternoon, Chinano turned up with Mandy and Kev, (and Kev’s sister Sue and husband Rob) so another excuse for a catch up over a beer both in bar opposite the pontoon and on their boat on Tuesday evening.
Meanwhile, I’ve used a couple of tubes of caulk on the stern and starboard decks, now looking very good!
Finally on Tuesday we got a message saying that the cockpit cushions will be ready on Wednesday! They duly turned up at noon and they fit perfectly and look excellent and make for a comfortable siesta!
Interestingly, although Messalonghi is famous for producing salt (also the home of Lord Byron) while we were in the harbour a large cargo ship turned up, offloading salt! Presumably to exploit spare packaging capacity.
So a final night on the pontoon on Wednesday, this time being blown onto it with F6/7 westerly winds, (but thankfully we’ve still got our scaffolding plank to act as a fender board) which eventually subsided in the early hours. So at 8 in the morning, with no wind, and some truly excellent cockpit cushions, we finally escaped Messalonghi!
